Much was made about the opening of Pulino’s. The opening coincided pretty neatly with the closing of Una Pizza Napoletana, and it was easy to see Nate Appleman’s arrival from San Francisco as a sort of pizzaiolo exchange for Anthony Mangieri. When my parents asked me to join them on a shopping trip on the Bowery, I thought it would be a good opportunity to check out Pulino’s for myself. Based on my spinach and egg pizza, Pulino’s isn’t a game-changer in the NYC pizza scene. The crust was too thin and cracker-like, with none of the charred flavor I love so much. It wasn’t puffy, or chewy, and the dough was under-seasoned. The spinach and cheese topping was perfectly tasty (though the egg was cooked just a bit too long, and was not runny), but nowhere near the level UPN, or my two current favorites: Roberta’s and Paulie Gee’s. On the positive side Pulino’s is a big beautiful space, and our party of three was seated immediately in the middle of a busy brunch service. I should note that I usually order the margherita as a test on my first visit to any pizzeria, but I was more in a brunch mood. I’m sure the margherita is good, as the spinach and egg was — my issue was more with the crust than with the toppings, and I have no reason to think the crust would be any better in the margherita.
Pulino’s — 282 Bowery