Upscale Thai at Kin Shop

A few weeks ago I was making plans for a late dinner with my friends Jeff & Eva, and they asked em the dreaded question: where did I want to meet? I say “dreaded” because sometimes, as a food blogger, that question makes me freeze up. I can rattle off recommendations of places that I’ve enjoyed, but I often rely on suggestions from others when looking for new places (hint, hint). Then it occurred to me, I’ve been meaning to try Kin Shop. Opened by Top Chef Season One’s winner Harold Dieterle, who also opened Perilla. Despite the fact that he’s a white guy opening up an expensive, upscale Thai restaurant, the reactions to Kin Shop seemed overwhelmingly positive.

I started with a salad of Bibb lettuce, Brussels sprouts, lady apples, pumpkin seeds, tossed with a Szechuan pepper vinaigrette. It didn’t feature the flavor profiles I’m used to from our Americanized Thai restaurants; mostly sweet, though not overly so, with the pumpkin seeds balancing out the flavors and the textures. I do wish that the Szechuan peppers made their presence known a little more, but it was light and refreshing all the same.

The curry I had for my entree was called simply “Sour Yellow”. It featured roasted king oyster mushrooms, sliced like squid, in a deliciously rich and spicy curry broth. The sourness came partly from the curry and partly from the chunks of turnip throughout the dish. I only wish there had been more chunks of the mushrooms; I love king oyster mushrooms and the Sour Yellow made great use of them. I ended up needing to get an order of rice to sop up the remaining curry, but it was so good that I didn’t want to stop eating it.

So yeah, it’s kind of a scene, and it was really loud in the restaurant, and yes, it is kind of ridiculous to pay $19 for a bowl of Thai curry, no matter how good it is. Still, there’s no denying that the meal was very good, and, more importantly, I’d like to go back.

Kin Shop — 469 6th Ave


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