On a recent trip to Astoria I passed by several bakeries advertising something called sfinge, so I just had to pick one up to take home. I decided on La Guli bakery, both because it was on my walk back to the train and because it looked suitably old school. It turns out a sfinge is basically an open-faced cannoli. Instead of being stuffed into a tube the ricotta mixture, dotted with chocolate chips and candied fruit, is loaded on top of a crispy shell; since it’s not enclosed the cream can be piled pretty high. It’s good, but the abundance actually detracts somewhat from the experience. With a traditional cannoli you’re left wanting more. Here, you’re left feeling that you’ve over-indulged.
La Guli Bakery — 29-15 Ditmars Blvd, Queens